In May 1908, Manhattan’s subway service reached Brooklyn for the first time. Today, you can still take the train to borough restaurants that were serving New Yorkers a century ago.

Peter Luger Steak House

Just over the Williamsburg Bridge from Manhattan, the big daddy of steakhouses has been in business since 1887, making it Brooklyn’s oldest restaurant. A prime-time dinner reservation can take two months, but if you go at lunchtime, you can get a Luger Burger and crispy-tender fries for $11.
By subway: J, M, Z to Marcy Ave.
178 Broadway, Williamsburg
718.387.7400
peterluger.com

Bamonte’s

This circa-1900 eatery in Williamsburg’s Italian enclave is warm and old-fashioned. The decor includes vintage photos, paintings, and chandeliers. The white-apron service is cordial, the food first-rate. Try the signature homemade ravioli.
By subway: G, L to Metropolitan Ave./Lorimer St.
32 Withers St., Williamsburg
718.384.8831

Ferdinando’s Focacceria

In Carroll Gardens, where the MetroCard machine offers Italian as a language option, this neighborhood gem has been welcoming guests with an informal atmosphere and Sicilian comfort food since 1904. Try the surprisingly light panelle (deep-fried chickpea cakes) or the potato special (topped with ricotta and other cheeses).
By subway: F, G to Carroll St.
151 Union St., Carroll Gardens
718.855.1545

Monte’s Venetian Room

Planted between the Gowanus Canal and the growing 4th Avenue hotel district, this 1906 restaurant has a cozy atmosphere with red banquettes and a wraparound mural of Venice. (You can spot the painting in a scene from the 1985 film Prizzi’s Honor.) Whatever you order from the menu of Italian standards, don’t miss the light and delicious ricotta cheesecake.
By subway: R to Union St.
451 Carroll St., Gowanus
718.624.8984

Gargiulo’s

This special-occasion spot surfaced on Mermaid Avenue in 1907 when Coney Island was a fancy resort. It moved around the corner in the late ’20s and now has an updated look. While it’s best known as a banquet and party hall, the dining room offers seafood cooked with tender expertise.
By subway: D, F, N, Q to Coney Island/Stillwell Ave.
2911 W. 15th St., Coney Island
718.266.4891
gargiulos.com

Photo by Stephanie Keith

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