BOSTON

A WALK THROUGH TIME

The history of America’s independence is woven into the fabric of present-day Boston, and nowhere is it more vivid than along The Freedom Trail. The 2.5-mile walking route celebrates its 50th birthday this year. To explore it, you don’t even need a map. A red-brick path leads you to 16 monumental sights, including the Granary Burying Ground, the final resting place of such Boston luminaries as Paul Revere, Samuel Adams, and John Hancock. The cemetery is a few blocks from the John Hancock Tower.

The trail also takes you into some of Boston’s most iconic neighborhoods — Beacon Hill, where you’ll find century-old brick brownstones and village squares; North End, with its winding streets and lively Italian community; and Charlestown, once the site of the Battle of Bunker Hill and now home to America’s most celebrated ship, the USS Constitution. Along the way, you can stop at the home of Paul Revere or the oldest continuously operating restaurant in America, the Union Oyster House, which opened in 1826. You can sit at JFK’s favorite booth or the counter where Daniel Webster ordered dinners of as many as three dozen oysters and six tumblers of brandy and water.

If you prefer going in a group, sign up for a guided tour offered by The Freedom Trail Foundation. (The National Park Service also offers tours every half hour from the visitor center opposite the Old State House.) For tour info and more about The Freedom Trail’s 50th Birthday Bash, visit thefreedomtrail.org.

— Stephen Jermanok

PHI L ADE LPHIA

COOL IT!

Cheesesteaks, the Italian Stallion, and the Mummers Parade are just a few of Philly’s unique claims to fame. Come summertime, you can add water ice to the list. The cold, sweet treat is wetter than sorbet, softer than Italian ice sold in supermarkets, and thicker and fresher than Slushees or snow cones.

Some say water ice dates back to Roman emperors. In Philly, it got its start in the early 20th century when Italian immigrants sold
shaved ice out of pushcarts. The recipes became family heirlooms and eventually evolved into the refreshment we enjoy today. Water ice is made by mixing chopped fruit and/or other natural flavors with ice at the perfect temperature. Every recipe is slightly different, and Philadelphians are loyal to their favorites. Find yours at these hot water-ice spots:

John’s Water Ice
John Cardullo started selling the treat in 1945, and his family hasn’t stopped since.
Location: 7th and Christian streets (a few blocks south of South Street)

Philly Flavors
This cool local spot boasts heaping servings and far-out flavors like sour cotton candy.
Original Location: 2004 Fairmount Ave. (a short walk from the art museum)
Second Location: 343 S. 13th St. (in Center City)

Pop’s
Taking in a Phillies game? Cool down afterward at Pop’s, a fan favorite since 1932 when Filippo “Pop” Italiano had his pushcart.
Location: 1337 Oregon Ave. (at Broad Street)

—Matthew Brodsky

PITTSBURGH

HUNGARIAN HIDEAWAY

Make a dinner reservation at Jozsa Corner, and you’ll get an authentic Hungarian meal with a little cultural immersion on the side. For the past 20 years, Alex Jozsa Bodnar, the owner, chef, and resident historian, has served “home cooking with no attitude and no preservatives, just the way my grandma used to cook,” at his tiny restaurant on Second Avenue. The dining room looks more like a living room, complete with couches, long tables, and plastic ware. The dill, onion, and paprika tickling your nose transport you to Eastern Europe while you enjoy Bodnar’s artwork and listen to traditional Hungarian folk music.

Using his old family recipes, Bodnar begins the meal with puffy langos (Hungarian bread), served sweet or spicy. Next come dishes like chicken paprikás, stuffed cabbage, or crescent pockets stuffed with meats and cheeses. Up to six courses arrive before Bodnar finally brings out the palacsinta (delicate Hungarian crepes filled with various fruits) and pulls up a chair; the food and conversation are equally satisfying.

For $15 per person (cash only), parties of four or more can enjoy a traditional Hungarian feast with a jovial host who never forgets a face or a favorite dish. As an added bonus, the second Friday of every month is Hungarian Heritage night, when dinner is accompanied by traditional music, folk dancing, or discussions. For more info, call 412.422.1886.

— Katy Rank Lev

MILWAUKEE

HOG HEAVEN

It’s not exactly “Hotel Harley,” but when The Iron Horse Hotel opens this month, motorcycle enthusiasts will have an upscale boutique inn to call their own. The Iron Horse is located in a restored turn-of-the-century brick building in the heart of Milwaukee and is a short walk from the new Harley-Davidson Museum, also scheduled to open this month.

Owner Tim Dixon assures guests that The Iron Horse is not a theme hotel, but it does offer amenities specifically geared toward bike aficionados. In addition to extras like iPod docking stations, flat-screen TVs, spa services, and whirlpool baths, all rooms have tile entrances with boot benches, storage for helmets, and cast-iron coat hooks that can support the weight of 60-pound leathers. Smyth restaurant serves stylish versions of comfort foods, including one great American classic with a dash of attitude — Truffled Mac and Cheese.

Bikes also get five-star treatment at The Iron Horse. There’s covered parking and an on-site bike wash. Check out theironhorsehotel.com.

— Judith Ritter

SCOTTSDALE

COWBOY WAY

Despite abundant wine and sushi bars, Old Town Scottsdale’s strict zoning codes keep the “West’s Most Western Town” looking pretty authentic — especially at the Rusty Spur Saloon. In business since 1951, the Spur is housed in an 87-year-old former bank building. (The vault now serves as a cooler.) License plates, a stuffed bobcat, and thousands of dollar bills decorate the walls. Every December the staff donates the money to charity.

There’s no draft beer, so order a longneck and grab a stool. Patrons also enjoy taking a spin on the tiny dance floor: The house band of eight years, Psychobilly Rodeo, covers everything from George Jones to ZZ Top. Ted, a 71-year-old regular, shares some time at the mic on Friday and Saturday nights, singing songs like “Margaritaville,” “Hello Walls,” and his signature “Your Cheatin’ Heart.” To find out more, call 480.425.7787 or visit rustyspursaloon.com.

— Aaron Gilbreath

TRAVEL TREND

TREETOP TRANQUILLITY

Treehouses aren’t just for kids anymore. Escape to your own leafy retreat with a stay at one of these elevated bed-and-breakfasts
on the West Coast.

Cedar Creek Treehouse
Located in Ashford, Washington, near Mount Rainier National Park, this treehouse inn is situated 50 feet up in a 200-year-old western red cedar. It’s large enough to accommodate up to five people; the sleeping loft features two double beds and personal skylights. There’s also an observatory 100 feet in the air. cedarcreektreehouse.com

Out ’n’ About Treesort and Treehouse Institute
This bed-and-breakfast in Takilma, Oregon, features 13 different treehouses. The highlight is the Treezebo, a gazebo perched 37 feet above ground level. For summer stays, rooms are often booked a year in advance. The resort was founded by Michael Garnier, a pioneer in the modern treehouse revival. It features a ropes course, a zip-line, and a freshwater swimming pool. treehouses.com

Post Ranch Inn
Situated along California’s Highway 1 at Big Sur, this inn features seven triangular treehouses. Each boasts mountain and tree views from all sides. The inn was included in Condé Nast Traveller’s 2008 Gold List of the world’s best hotels. postranchinn.com

— Chelan David

NEW YORK CITY

LITERARY NIGHTLIFE

Once a mainstay of bookstores and libraries, readings are becoming a vital part of nightlife in the Big Apple. Fifty years ago the Beat Generation made bars and literature inseparable, but this time around the venues and offerings are much more diverse. Whether you prefer poetry slams or intimate readings by candlelight, bar hopping is becoming one of the best ways to sample the city’s literary culture.

Bowery Poetry Club
This popular performance venue and watering hole focuses on poetry but also hosts book parties, staged readings, and fringe theater. The cavernous space has an art wall with rotating exhibits and a Lite-Brite portrait of Walt Whitman next to the
stage. Cocktails are as cheeky and fitting as the decor; you can try a Leaves of Grasshopper or an Allen “Gini”-sberg while listening to some of New York’s most talented poets.
308 Bowery St.
212.614.0505
bowerypoetry.com

Nuyorican Poets Cafe
Allen Ginsberg was a regular visitor and performer at this legendary poetry club in Alphabet City. The cafe has showcased a multitude of artists from various backgrounds since it was founded in 1973, and the famed Friday poetry slams still pack the house.
236 East 3rd St.
212.505.8183
nuyorican.org

Cornelia Street Café
The ground-floor restaurant of this West Village boîte serves classic bistro fare, and the basement club holds readings several nights a week. Stone archways and a grand refurbished oak bar lend an appropriate ambiance for an evening of wine, poetry, and prose.
29 Cornelia St.
212.989.9319
corneliastreetcafe.com

KGB Bar
Located in what was once a meeting place for Ukrainian socialists, the second-floor bar now packs in imbibers who come to see and hear writers like Jonathan Franzen and Augusten Burroughs. Recent events have included writers’ salons, round-table discussions, and an evening of Russian poetry. The KGB plays up its history with red walls and seats and Soviet-era posters and photos. Fittingly, the bar serves up plenty of Baltika beer, as well as more than 20 different kinds of vodka.
85 East 4th St.
212.505.3360
kgbbar.com

The Half King
This Chelsea restaurant and bar, co-owned by The Perfect Storm author Sebastian Junger, specializes in nonfiction readings. Local patrons and literary types fl ock to semi-regular events featuring magazine journalists. The menu touts a variety of savory items from salad with herb-crusted salmon to buttermilk onion rings.
505 West 23rd St.
212.462.4300
thehalfking.com

— Diana Kuan

LONDON

RING MASTER

Stepping from east London’s traffic-choked clamor into the silent calm of Whitechapel Bell Foundry offers a breath of fresh air. But first impressions don’t count: This little shop fronts a legendary 438-year-old bell-making operation where both the Liberty Bell and the hour bell of the Great Clock at the Palace of Westminster — a.k.a. Big Ben — first sounded their mighty tolls. Guided tours illuminate the historic operation, while a free on-site museum chimes in with sonorous tales of cathedral clangers from St. Petersburg, Russia, to Washington, D.C.

But it’s the Liberty Bell that resonates most. Shipped across the pond in 1752, it cracked twice over the ensuing years — and not all has been forgiven. During the 1976 Bicentennial, jocular demonstrators from the Procrastinators Society of America waved tongue-in-cheek placards outside the foundry with messages including “What about our warranty?” Whitechapel officials replied that they would happily replace the bell “if returned to us in its original packaging.” Tours are offered on select Saturdays, and reservations are required. To learn more, visit the foundry online at whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk.

— John Lee

LAS VEGAS

NOW APPEARING JULY & AUGUST

July 17–23
Donny & Marie Osmond -- 2
MGM Grand’s Hollywood Theatre

July 18
De La Soul
Hard Rock Hotel and Casino

July 18
Kathy Griffin
Mandalay Bay Theatre

July 18
Journey, Heart, and Cheap Trick
Mandalay Bay Events Center

July 18–20
Trisha Yearwood
The Orleans Hotel and Casino

July 19
Coldplay -- 1
MGM Grand Garden Arena

July 24
Less Than Jake and Goldfinger
House of Blues in Mandalay Bay

July 24–30
Craig Ferguson
MGM Grand’s Hollywood Theatre

July 25–26, August 8–9
Jay Leno
The Mirage

July 25–27
Kool & The Gang
The Orleans Hotel and Casino

July 26
Ringo Starr
Terrible’s Star of the Desert Arena

July 31–August 3
Don Rickles
The Orleans Hotel and Casino

August 1
Mötley Crue -- 4
Mandalay Bay Events Center

August 1–2
Kevin James
The Mirage

August 2
Pat Benatar and Neil Giraldo
Terrible’s Star of the Desert Arena

August 2
Little River Band
Cannery Casino & Hotel

August 2
Rod Stewart -- 3
MGM Grand Garden Arena

August 2
The Marshall Tucker Band
Boulder Station

August 7–20
Tom Jones
MGM Grand’s Hollywood Theatre

August 8
Steely Dan
Palms Casino Resort

August 8
The Romantics
Santa Fe Station

August 8–9
Jerry Seinfeld
Caesars Palace

August 9
UB40
Red Rock Casino, Resort and Spa

August 15
Hall & Oates
Hard Rock Hotel and Casino

PARIS

À LA MODE

The City of Light is the place to go if you want to peruse the latest fashions fresh from the runway. But if your taste is a little more retro, contact Tara Munro, owner of Ooh La La! Vintage. She started the French retro and vintage clothing company in 2005 and now flits between London and Paris conducting classes, soirees, and guided shopping trips.

For €80 (about $124), you can sign up for Munro’s master class/boutique with afternoon tea at a Paris cafe. While you dig into treats like tarte au citron, Munro pulls frocks, shoes, jewelry, and handbags from a suitcase to create an impromptu boutique. You might see a plum-colored duchesse-satin gown, a black silk flapper dress, or a frock from the fabric-rationed ’40s made from snooker-table felt. She also displays spot-on reproductions by her own label, Madame Tra La La.

During the two-hour class, Munro determines which fashion eras suit you best, gives a rundown of 20th-century fashion history, and tells you how to sniff out real vintage — while you sip champagne and try stuff on. Munro says she loves this part of her
job as much as she likes trawling for treasures. “It’s like a dress-up game,” she admits, “but I get to dress up real girls instead of dolls.”

Other classes are available, and Munro can tailor a get-together to suit any budget. For more info, visit oohlalavintage.com.

— Caroline Tiger

MONTREAL

MAGNIFIQUE!

Summer in Montreal offers plenty of ways to enjoy the great outdoors.

On a Bike
With more than 350 kilometers of bike paths in the city, cycling is a popular pastime. Ride along the Lachine Canal, and you’ll see a once-industrial neighborhood that’s been converted into chic condos and apartments, all surrounded by greenbelts and parks. While you’re there, don’t miss Atwater Market, which transforms into a giant greenhouse in the summer. You’ll fi nd everything from flowers and produce to pastries and cafe au lait.
Gear and info:
Montreal On Wheels
514.866.0633
caroulemontreal.com

In a Kayak
So many people take to the St. Lawrence River in summer that a kayaking excursion can feel more like a sociable bumper-boat ride than a peaceful float. But it’s still great fun, especially during the International Fireworks Competition, held on select nights now through August 6. (See internationaldesfeuxlotoquebec.com for a schedule.) On the river, you’ll have the best seat in the house.
Gear and info:
Bougex, 514.403.3115

On a Surfboard
Hang ten? On the St. Lawrence? Mais oui! River surfing is not for the faint of heart. But if you can swim, riding the Lachine Rapids (sometimes called the “endless wave”) behind the landmark Habitat 67 residential complex will be absolutely exhilarating. Note: Even if you’re a decent ocean surfer, surfing on a river requires special gear and different boards and techniques, so it’s best to find an instructor and sign up for the beginner class before tackling the waves alone.
Gear and info:
2imagine Surf School
514.504.5522
2imagine.net

— Maryann Hammers

L AS V EGAS

BEHIND THE SCENES

Ever wondered what goes on behind the neon curtain of Las Vegas? Sin City isn’t about to let you in on all its closely guarded secrets, but a few select tours offer a glimpse behind the scenes of some of the Strip’s most popular attractions.

Jubilee! Backstage Tour
Bally’s Las Vegas
At one of the city’s longest-running showgirl productions, dancers offer one-hour tours exploring costumes, lighting, hair and make-up, and set design. Some secrets revealed: Jubilee! showcases no less than 1,000 Bob Mackie designer costumes, and the costume department spends nearly 15 hours a day mending fishnet stockings.
702.967.4567
ballyslasvegas.com

The Experience: Secrets Unveiled
Star Trek: The Experience
Las Vegas Hilton
This multimedia attraction features the largest permanent collection of Star Trek props and costumes in the world. It also includes two live shows; one ends with a state-of-the-art 3-D ride alongside live actors. Guests learn about character creation and development while exploring the inner workings of the rides and listening to backstage anecdotes about various Star Trek productions.
888.GO.BOLDLY
startrekexp.com

Atlantis Aquarium
Below-the-Scenes Tour
The Forum Shops at Caesars
Explore the field of marine biology with a visit to the nether regions of the mall’s 50,000-gallon saltwater aquarium. Guests see the shark and ray pool, fish acclimation areas, the tank’s complex filtration system, and fresh fish food being prepared in the tank’s private kitchen.
702.893.3807
forumshops.com

— Dean Blaine

OREGON

COAST LINES

Head west out of Eugene on Route 126, keep going until you reach the ocean, and you’ll discover a string of quaint seaside towns that boast more than a refreshing sea breeze and stunning ocean views.

Make Florence your first stop. Located about 60 miles west of Eugene, it’s a great base for exploring an impressive stretch of wind-swept sand dunes — the largest expanse of coastal sand dunes in North America. They reach up to 500 feet above sea level and offer outdoor adventures like horseback riding, hiking, and four-wheeling. And don’t forget the fantastic photo ops: Sunsets cast Saharan shadows on every curve. For more info, visit the Siuslaw National Forest at fs.fed.us/r6/siuslaw. Back in town, you can browse shops and galleries, then stop in at Mo’s. The restaurant is most famous for its clam chowder served in a sourdough bread bowl, and all the seafood is delicious and affordable. Check out moschowder.com for more.

About 11 miles north on Highway 101 you’ll find the Sea Lion Caves, home to about 200 sea lions. Guinness World Records lists the locale as the largest sea cave in the world. To fully appreciate its size — 12 stories high and the length of a football field — ride the elevator 208 feet down into the cavern. Learn more at sealioncaves.com. End your day about 40 more miles up the coast in Newport, home to the Rogue Brewery. Sample their award-winning Shakespeare Stout and unusually delicious Mocha Porter. You might be tempted to stay for dinner before getting back on the road. Visit rogue.com for more info.

— Diane Morgan

PUERTO RICO

FOR THE THRILL OF IT

When you’re ready to trade your flip-flops and swimsuit for tennis shoes and a backpack, sign up with Puerto Rico’s Acampa Nature Adventures for an all-day jaunt that will take you off the beaten path. Based in San Juan, Acampa’s certified guides pick you up at your hotel and drive you about two hours to the Toro Negro Rainforest, a remote reserve in the island’s mountainous center. After four-wheeling to the starting point, the adventure begins with a hike through the jungle and across a stream, followed by a climb to the top of a gentle waterfall where a tropical pool awaits. Next you break for a buffet-style lunch prepared by a local family and served on the front porch of a private farmhouse deep in the jungle. In the afternoon, you rappel down a 60-foot cliff and zip-line 200 feet across the treetops.

Bring along a waterproof camera bag, plenty of bug spray, and extra clothes — and be prepared to get wet. The Toro Negro Rainforest Adventure is offered every day, as long as a minimum of six people sign up. The cost is $149 per person. Acampa offers several other excursions that explore different parts of the country. For info, call 787.706.0695 or visit acampapr.com.

— Karen Schaler

CHARLOTTE

FAMILY TIME

Bored kids and frustrated parents will find a cure for the summertime blues in the Queen City. The area boasts plenty of family-fun centers that guarantee a good time for all.

Sports Connection
Located in the Ballantyne neighborhood, this 70,000-square-foot facility offers bowling, laser tag, arcade games, and a playground with inflatable equipment. Mom and dad can work out on state-of-the-art exercise machines at Peak Fitness. The Connection Café has Internet access and serves wine and beer.
11611 Ardrey Kell Rd.
704.583.1444
sportsconnectionnc.com

Zuma Fun Center
At this facility in Pineville, you can play miniature golf, test your racing skills at the go-kart track, splash around on bumper boats, or practice your swing in batting cages. There’s also a two-story arcade with hundreds of interactive games.
10400 Cadillac St.
704.552.7888
zumafuncenters.com

NASCAR SpeedPark
Located in Concord across from Lowe’s Motor Speedway, this park has five go-kart tracks suitable for both kids and adults. There are also bumper boats, an 18-hole miniature golf course, an arcade with over 50 games, a rock-climbing wall, a playground, and a laser-tag arena. Grownups can experience what it feels like behind the wheel of a real stock car in NASCAR simulators.
8461-G1 Concord Mills Blvd.
704.979.6770
nascarspeedpark.com

— Sam Boykin

BELFAST, MAINE

PAST IS PRESENT

The small town of Belfast in mid-coast Maine may seem remote, but it’s only 37 miles from Bangor (or 100 miles from Portland). And it’s worth a stop: The Maine Times once called Belfast the state’s “best little-known town to walk around in for an hour.” The hamlet’s attractions include an eclectic assortment of shops, stately 18th-century brick buildings, sea captains’ mansions, and a scenic waterfront. Here are some gems that are not to be missed during your downtown stroll.

Colonial Theatre started showing “moving pictures” in 1912 — on the same day the Titanic set sail.
163 High St.
207.338.5087
colonialtheatre.com

Darby’s Restaurant & Pub has served customers from the same antique bar since 1865.
155 High St.
207.338.2339
darbysrestaurant.com

The Belfast Co-op, a natural foods store, carries produce grown by local farmers.
123 High St.
207.338.2532
belfast.coop

The Green Store sells everything eco, from fume-free paints and tree-free paper to natural beauty products and fair-trade gifts.
71 Main St.
207.338.4045
greenstore.com

Colburn, the nation’s oldest shoe store, has been serving customers since 1832.
79 Main St.
207.338.1934
colburnshoe.com

Scoops & Crepes, an old-fashioned ice cream parlor, serves up ice-cream sodas, floats, and milkshakes.
35 Main St.
207.338.3350

— Maryann Hammers

WASHINGTON, D.C.

PARTY PLATTER

With election fever high in the nation’s capital, you can show your partisanship (or lack thereof) with some politically inspired food and drink.

JW Marriott Hotel Pennsylvania Avenue
Through November 4, the hotel’s 1331 Bar & Lounge is hosting Bi-Partisan Tuesdays. Choose from menu items like Left Wings, with spicy Asian sauce, and Right Wings, with honey-barbecue sauce. Or pick the Undecide’r Sliders, with Black Angus beef, chicken, salmon, or pulled pork. Pair your dish with the appropriate cocktail: The Grand Old Potable is made with citrus vodka and pomegranate liqueur; the Left of the Isle has citrus vodka and blue curaçao; and the On the Fence blends vanilla-infused cognac, cream, crème de cacao, and amaretto.
1331 Pennsylvania Ave.
202.393.2000
marriott.com

Topaz Hotel
At the hotel’s bar, the Topaz Votes ’08 Campaign Cocktail Menu offers the Double-Down Donkey for Democrats. It’s a mix of citrus vodka, blue curaçao, and a splash of sour mix, topped off with champagne. For Republicans, the All-In Elephant contains coconut and orange rums, amaretto, grenadine, lime juice, and a splash of cranberry and orange juices. The Independent Player blends Stoli and aloe vera juice, and The Undecided is — what else? — a mini-flight of all three cocktails.
1733 N Street NW
202.393.3000
topazhotel.com

— Julie Moore