FIELD OF DREAMS
Cherry blossoms in the outfield. Sightlines that embrace the Capitol and the National Mall. A handsome blend of concrete and glass perched in a riverside park. So much for “first in war, first in peace, and last in the American League,” the slogan that described Washington through much of its baseball history. Now a National League city, D.C. is the site of the only new major-league stadium to open this year.
Nationals Park debuted March 30 with a nationally televised regular-season game. The stadium holds 41,000 fans and boasts views of the Mall, the Washington Monument, and the Capitol from upper-level seats. Another plus is that visitors don’t have to brave D.C. parking if they take the Washington Metro Green Line to the Navy Yard stop.
Spectators at this ballpark have the opportunity to learn a bit of history while enjoying a favorite American pastime: Statues honoring former Washington greats Walter Johnson (original Senators), Frank Howard (expansion Senators), and Josh Gibson (Negro Leagues) greet fans who arrive through a pedestrian plaza behind center field. In addition, luxury suites are named for former U.S. presidents George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and Abraham Lincoln — although these can be purchased and renamed for a price.
Most of the ballpark’s $611 million cost was paid with city funds, but Nationals owner Ted Lerner pitched in millions more. As a result, fans can enjoy a high-definition scoreboard, video and ribbon boards, multiple play areas for kids, and mahogany-accented clubhouses that suggest British gentlemen’s clubs. The landlocked park is located near the Anacostia River on a site picked by Mayor Anthony Williams. If first impressions are an accurate barometer, he made the right choice.
— Dan Schlossberg
Map by Laura Coyle
PHILADELPHIA
WONDER WALLS
Everyone knows about Philly’s cheesesteaks and Liberty Bell, but few know that the city is considered the mural capital of the world. With nearly 2,800 larger-than-life works of public art brightening walls all over town, Philadelphia boasts more murals than any other city in the world. It’s all due to the efforts of the Mural Arts Program, founded in 1984 in an attempt to redirect the energy of graffiti writers toward creating murals instead. The program is credited with drastically reducing graffiti, beautifying neighborhoods, and empowering local artists. Using paint, tile, glass, and other materials, professional artists work with residents, including at-risk youth and adults in prison and rehab centers, to create the spectacular murals. More than just beautiful works of art, the unique designs tell stories about the diverse neighborhoods they inhabit and the people who create them.
The best way to experience the murals is an open-air trolley tour. Offered on Saturdays and Sundays from April through November (also on Wednesdays from May through November), the two-hour tours feature a different section of the city each week. Monthly Murals and Meals tours include lunch at a local restaurant. Regular tours cost $25 for adults and depart from the Independence Visitor Center. Meal tours cost $45 and depart from the featured restaurant. For more info, call 215.685.0750 or visit muralarts.org.
— Karrie Gavin
Photography by Jack Ramsdale/Mural Arts Program
BOSTON
MAKING THE SCENE
When it comes to moviemaking, New York and Hollywood are the hubs, but don’t count out Boston. The city has provided the backdrop for nearly 400 movies and TV shows — and you can put yourself in the middle of the action with Boston Movie Tours. The company takes you to the locations that made films like The Departed, Good Will Hunting, Fever Pitch, and Legally Blonde come to life. You can also see the building that was used for the exterior shots in Ally McBeal and Boston Legal, and hoist a pint in the pub that was the inspiration for Cheers. Two tour options are available: a 90-minute walking tour and a two-hour ride on the company’s “Theater-on-Wheels.” Adult tickets start at $20. Tours begin this month for the 2008 season, which lasts through November. For more info, click on bostonmovietours.net.
— Julie Moore
PHILADELPHIA
FRAMES OF REFERENCE
April is National Woodworking Month, so it’s the perfect time to visit the Wharton Esherick Museum in Paoli, about 25 miles west of Philly. Esherick, a graduate of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, began his artistic career as a painter in the early 1900s. But in the 1920s, he discovered his real passion when he realized that carving decorative frames for his portraits was more exciting than creating the canvases they held. Today he’s known as a master woodworker who sculpted furniture and interiors.
Esherick’s home studio is tucked away on a hillside in the woods abutting Valley Forge National Park. Outside, the studio is visually striking, with a mix of Pennsylvania fieldstone, cobalt blue Venetian plaster, and copper roofing. Inside is a world of wonders. Esherick’s disdain for sharp lines is apparent in his use of sensuous, silky curves that transform everyday objects — like a table — into works of art. The setting is so intimate you expect the artist to be working around every corner. Best of all, it’s okay to touch just about everything you see.
—Beth D’Addono
SCOTLAND
SWEET SPOT
In golf, as in life, the best things are worth waiting for. Since building the world’s first golf course some 600 years ago, the Scottish town of St. Andrews has averaged opening only one new public course every hundred years. This century’s addition is the Castle Course, set to debut June 28. The Links Trust, the nonprofit group that oversees all St. Andrews courses, designed this one on a plot of farmland just outside the city. With 150-foot seaside cliffs, the Castle Course offers the best vistas of St. Andrews Bay. Every hole has a sea view, and seven run along the edge of the cliffs. Holes nine and eighteen share a double green on a peninsula that juts into the surf, ensuring a dramatic finish to both nines. Number seventeen, a par 3 over a rocky cove, is expected to become the signature hole.
The entire town has been gearing up for the opening for quite a while. The fabled Old Course Hotel underwent a renovation in 2006, adding a spa and redesigning its golf course. The Fairmont St. Andrews Bay, the most convenient lodging for the Castle Course, has also been renovated from top to bottom, with two revamped cliff-top courses of its own. St. Andrews is about 65 miles from Glasgow. To find out more, visit standrews.org.uk, or to book a tee time online, go to linksnet.co.uk.
—Larry Olmsted
LAS VEGAS
NOW APPEARING
 |
|
MILES TO GO
When you think about it, 150 miles on a bicycle isn’t that far — especially when the trail is flat, the woods are beautiful, and the babbling Youghiogheny River is always there to keep you company. That’s what you’ll find along the Great Allegheny Passage, which starts humbly in McKeesport, just a few miles from downtown Pittsburgh. (A nine-mile section connecting McKeesport to Pittsburgh’s existing trail system should be complete late this year.) The trail skirts old mills and villages before leading you into the dense forests of Pennsylvania’s Laurel Highlands. Along the way you’ll cruise past small towns and a school-bus graveyard, through tunnels, and over epic steel bridges that were originally built for trains and retrofitted for bikers and walkers. Every few hours, you can hear a freight train rumbling across the river.
Created by the Allegheny Trail Alliance, the Great Allegheny Passage runs in a continuous gravel line from Pittsburgh to Cumberland, Maryland, making it one of the most ambitious Rails-to-Trails projects in history. Once you reach Cumberland, you can hop on the C&O Canal Towpath, a historic mule path that extends another 185 miles to Washington, D.C. Never has the trip from Steel City to the nation’s capital been such a workout. To make the full trek, riders can expect a solid week of travel, with stops at scattered campgrounds and B&Bs along the way. On sunny days, the Passage is smooth and relaxed, a gentle ride in wilderness that’s never too far from a souvenir shop or a quick meal.
For more info, call the Allegheny Trail Alliance at 888.ATA.BIKE or visit them online at atatrail.org.
— Robert Isenberg
Map by Laura Coyle
pittsburgh
GREEN ACRES
Green — not gray — is the Steel City’s new shade: Thousands of wild acres within Pittsburgh’s city limits make it possible to hike, bike, and paddle — all without commuting out of town. Shrug off urban congestion and escape into nature with a surprising number of parks and trails.
Start your day at Square Café, on the east edge of Frick Park. Nab an alfresco table and order the pancakes topped with fruit, almonds, walnuts, or homemade granola — excellent fuel for a day filled with outdoor pursuits. After breakfast, rent a bike and grab a trail map at nearby Biketek. Then pedal into 600-acre Frick Park, Pittsburgh’s largest city park, where miles of carriage roads and single-track trails wind through wooded hollows and hillsides. Gear down and choose a “dawg” and a beer at D’s Six Pax and Dogz; they fix hot dogs lots of ways and offer hundreds of beer varieties.
In the afternoon, start with hiking at Riverview Park on Pittsburgh’s North Side, where paths wind through hardwood forests, deer graze beneath ancient oak trees, and trails offer views of the Ohio River. Start at the Allegheny Observatory to venture out into 250 untamed acres.
By late afternoon, when the setting sun turns the city’s skyscrapers into a sparkling monolith, head for Kayak Pittsburgh on the Allegheny River waterfront beneath the Roberto Clemente Bridge. Rent a kayak and venture upriver to spy waterfowl cruising the waves and herons striding through shallow pools. Kayakers can also navigate the river’s locks. Cap off your evening tour with dinner at The Coal Hill Steakhouse at The Grandview Saloon, a Mt. Washington eatery with outdoor decks overlooking the rivers you just explored.
— Kelly Bastone
New JerseyFOR THE BIRDS
It’s a long flight from the Arctic tundra to South America, so it’s no surprise that tens of thousands of birds make a rest stop during their annual migration. What people probably don’t know is that the avian stopover of choice is New Jersey or that the World Series of Birding takes place in the Garden State every year. This year the popular bird lovers’ event will be held May 10. Teams will identify as many types of birds as they can in 24 hours, starting at the top of the state and ending at the tip of Cape May. But you don’t need to be a pro to enjoy the view. Here are four perfect spots for you and your binoculars.
Edwin B. Forsythe National Wildlife Refuge
This 46,000-acre preserve in Oceanville is located in one of the most active paths on the Atlantic Flyway. Inside the refuge is Wildlife Drive, an eight-mile road through wetlands and woodlands. (You can drive it or walk.) Or you can explore one of the park’s shorter trails, where you’re likely to see migrating warblers, forest birds, or migratory songbirds. Stop in at headquarters for a bird checklist or to rent binoculars.
609.652.1665
fws.gov/northeast/forsythe
Estell Manor Park
This 1,700-acre park in Mays Landing is a popular birding spot where enthusiasts can camp. The park is also a great place for fishing, canoeing, kayaking, mountain biking, and hiking.
609.645.5960
aclink.org/parks/mainpages/estell.asp
The Wetlands Institute
An ideal spot for amateur birders, this facility in Stone Harbor offers both indoor and outdoor bird-watching areas. There are experts on hand to answer questions, and brochures, books, and workshop rooms are available for additional research. At the Diller Coastal Exhibit Building you’ll find an aquarium with marsh animals and educational exhibits about wetland wildlife.
609.368.1211
wetlandsinstitute.org
Cape May Point State Park
Located at the southernmost tip of the state in Cape May, this park is a hot spot for birds. Purple martins come in late March and early April, and the spring and summer attracts everything from neotropical songbirds to rough-winged swallows. Hawks are the biggest draw in the fall. (Best viewing of the predator is September through mid- November.) Guided bird walks are offered late spring through early fall.
609.884.2159
nj.gov/dep/parksandforests/parks/capemay.html
— Jen A. Miller
Map by Laura Coyle
las vegas
WAKE-UP CALL
As a top destination for business conventions, Vegas has more than its share of tuckered-out professionals, exhausted from sitting in meetings for hours on end. The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas offers a healthy way to recharge between long sessions: Yoga Breaks. Led by certified yoga and pilates instructors, the 30-minute sessions include a series of guided, modified yoga poses, sitting and standing breathing exercises, meditation, and stretching. Healthy refreshments like smoothies, juices, and fruit are also available. Spa staff will work with meeting organizers to customize group lessons for their event; shorter breaks and one-on-one sessions are also available. For info, call 800.332.3442 or visit fourseasons.com/lasvegas.
— Julie Moore
charlotte
GOING FOR GOLD
You don’t have to travel to Beijing to get a front-row seat for Olympic sports action. On April 25–27, the best kayakers and canoeists in the Western Hemisphere will gather at Charlotte’s U.S. National Whitewater Center, where they’ll compete on the world’s biggest man-made river for the right to race in the 2008 Olympic Games.
The headline event is the U.S. Olympic Team whitewater slalom trials. The race also serves as the Canadian team trials and will determine which countries receive the four at-large Olympic berths allocated to the Americas. The U.S. already has Olympic entries in men’s and women’s kayaking, but American canoeists face a do-or-die test in Charlotte: Win it all, or stay home.
Despite the high stakes, the Whitewater Center will be in festival mode, with live music and hands-on activities like rock climbing, mountain biking, and whitewater rafting. Admission is $10 a day or $15 for a multi-day pass — a price that gets you unprecedented access. “It’s not like going to an NFL game,” says David Yarborough, executive director of USA Canoe/Kayak. “You can talk to the athletes.”
For race schedules, ticket info, and more, visit usnwc.org.
— Jeff Moag
New York city
STRIKE ZONE
If you’re among the 53.5 million Americans who bowl weekly and find yourself in the Big Apple, chances are you’ve resigned yourself to taking time off from the lanes. But here’s the striking truth: New Yorkers bowl, too. And Manhattan boasts four alleys where you can throw alongside the locals.
Bowlmor Lanes
This Greenwich Village legend is a 42-lane duplex where Richard Nixon once bowled. These days, the after-5:00 scene lasts till 2 a.m. or later and includes a DJ and a light show to rival a Pink Floyd concert. Take the kids during the day, and let them check out the pin-setting machine through the glass wall.
bowlmor.com
300 New York
Built inside the old Chelsea steamship piers where the Titanic was scheduled to dock, this alley promises a unique experience. The waitstaff serves food and drinks at your lane, and you can watch plasma-screen TVs and tuck into an Angus steak burger between turns.
3hundred.com
Leisure Time Bowl
Inside the 1950 Port Authority Bus Terminal you’ll find 28 surprisingly spiffy lanes where commuters fit in a game before hopping the Parsippany Local.
leisuretimebowl.com
Harlem Lanes
A subway trek to 125th Street is worth making for this gentrified newcomer with a restaurant, a bar, a kids’ playroom, an arcade, and 24 state-of-the-art lanes (with leather couches). Boogie down on Monday and Tuesday for Disco Bowl nights.
harlemlanes.com
— Robert Klara
Illustration by Jon Flaming
phoenix
EUROCENTRIC
Looking for culture and cuisine that’s less South of the Border and more Old World? Make a reservation at any of these restaurants, and you may find yourself wondering if you need to pay for your meal with euros.
Alto ristorante e bar
Find Venetian romance at this restaurant inside the Hyatt Regency Scottsdale. The waiter serenades you as he serves specialty cheeses and Italian wines. After dinner, board the gondola for a complimentary boat ride. A singing gondolier guides you and your sweetheart through seven acres of waterways.
7500 E. Doubletree Ranch Rd.
scottsdale.hyatt.com
Bacchanal
It’s one big Greek party at this Phoenix restaurant. With Greek isle murals adorning the walls, bouzouki players on stage, and belly dancers ringing finger cymbals, you’ll feel like you should have worn your best toga. Order ouzo, appetizers, and seafood. Then, opa! Time to toss the plates. It’s a Greek tradition, and everyone’s invited to join the fun.
3015 E. Thomas Rd.
bacchanalgreekaz.com
Pepin
For Spanish food and culture lovers, this Old Town Scottsdale hotspot is the place to be. The menu includes hot and cold tapas, five kinds of paella (the house specialty), and a little hot salsa...dancing, that is. Learn how to tango after the flamenco performances on Friday and Saturday nights.
7363 Scottsdale Mall
pepinrestaurant.com
Haus Murphy’s
This German restaurant in Glendale boasts an outdoor bier garten, live polka music on Friday and Saturday nights, and a menu offering the “Art of Schnitzel” (choose from pork, veal, chicken, or cheese).
5739 W. Glendale Ave.
hausmurphys.com
Séamus McCaffrey’s
Located in downtown Phoenix, this popular Irish pub is within walking distance of the basketball arena and the ballpark. Enjoy live Celtic music, Irish whiskey, and traditional fare like corned beef and cabbage.
18 W. Monroe St.
seamusmccaffreys.com
— Jackie Dishner
Illustration by Jon Flaming
paris
WORD’S WORTH
Young writers with big dreams — and just plain book lovers — will find themselves at home in the hallowed halls of Shakespeare & Company. Since 1951, this bookstore has welcomed writers, artists, and poets alike. George Whitman, the 94-year-old owner, offers the store’s couches-turned-beds to young writers free of charge. His only conditions: Submit a short bio, be willing to help in the store with tasks like organizing books and catering to customers, and read one book a day. This last proviso shouldn’t be hard, given the volumes lining the walls.
Over the years, the store has hosted scores of writers — about 50,000 according to the shop’s Web site — including Henry Miller and Allen Ginsberg.
“The most coveted spot is the writer’s room on the first floor because it has a sink and a door that closes and a big bed and some really great books,” says Jeremy Mercer, author of Time Was Soft There: A Paris Sojourn at Shakespeare & Co.
You might even find a little romance among the stacks. Whitman says at last count there were close to a hundred marriages that resulted from encounters at the store. After all, it is Paris.
— Mridu Khullar
portland, Maine
NORTHERN STAR
Visitors to the Pine Tree State often head to the dramatic, rugged terrain of Acadia National Park, while urban centers like Portland on the state’s southern coast are overlooked. But this town — with four centuries of seagoing heritage, cobblestone streets, and unique shops and restaurants — is well worth a visit.
Stow your bags at Portland Harbor Hotel, located one block from the waterfront and smack-dab in the center of the Old Port District. If the weather’s good, sit in the garden for a breakfast of pancakes, bursting with fresh Maine blueberries and doused in Maine maple syrup.
You’ll find more blueberries — this time topped with white and milk chocolate — less than a block away at the Old Port Candy Company. Also be on the lookout for lobster gummies and homemade fudge.
Nearby, the moose rules at Cool as a Moose clothing store. Pictures of Hermie, the store mascot, giving the peace sign can be found on T-shirts, sweats, and bumper stickers. Across the street is Pandemonium, an aptly named shop that carries an eclectic mix of wares — from sterling-silver earrings to barbecue sauces to retro lunch boxes.
Head down to the working waterfront and let Bay View Cruises take you on a 90-minute tour around some of the 220 Casco Bay Islands. You’ll see Fort Gorges, built just before the Civil War in 1858. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot seals bobbing in the water.
Drive across Casco Bay Bridge to Cape Elizabeth to see Portland Head Light, Maine’s oldest lighthouse. First lit in 1791, this exquisite white edifice has been the subject of paintings by Edward Hopper and other artists. Stroll atop the paved cliff-walk to spot lobstermen hauling traps from their boats.
Back in town, taste the fresh catch at 51 Wharf, set off a narrow cobblestone alleyway in the Old Port. Start with the creamy clam chowder and follow it with an entree of fruits de mer: A plate of linguine, flavored with a spicy marinara sauce, is topped with calamari, shrimp, scallops, haddock, and a ring of mussels.
— Stephen Jermanok
- VENICE / by Litty Mathew
- DIAMONDS ARE A FAN’S BEST FRIEND / by Lynn Seldon
- RAIL ALE TRAIL / by John Lee
- VERBATIM: CARL HIAASEN / by J. Rentilly
- ALTER EGO: LESS THAN JAKE / by J. Rentilly
- 9 HOLES WITH… PETER JACOBSEN / by John Maginnes
- MATERIAL WORLD
- OUR DIGITAL LIFE / by Dan Tynan
- FOOD FROM THE EDGE / by John T. Edge
- SAVE MY CAREER / by Donald Asher
- SMART BUSINESS / by C. J. Prince
- DEPARTURE
- ALL OVER THE MAP
