WALKING ERIN
Ireland is known for the beauty of its pastoral farmlands, rugged coastlines, and postcard-perfect villages. But it’s tough to appreciate the scenery if you’re tucked inside a car watching the views fly by. Now a new series of walking loops created by Ireland’s tourism authority makes it easy for visitors to stop and smell the heather and the blooming yellow gorse. More than 30 trails of various lengths and difficulty levels wind their way along remote coastal paths, through national parks, and past farmlands, bogs, and moorlands.
One of the prettiest routes is the Muckross Lake Loop at Killarney National Park. It begins and ends at Muckross House, a popular visitor attraction with an 1843 mansion, a walled garden, and craft workshops. Nearby Muckross Traditional Farms re-creates an Irish farm of the 1930s and ’40s, complete with animals and horse-drawn machinery. The nine-mile trail, which takes three to five hours to complete, then circles Muckross Lake, passing small beaches, rocky coves, and ancient oak and yew forests.
At about the halfway point, trekkers reach Dinis Cottage, a 200-year-old hunting lodge and lake house that’s now a cozy cafe. With sandwiches, scones, and hot tea on the menu, it’s a perfect rest stop. For those who don’t feel like walking the rest of the way, there’s boat service from the cottage back to Muckross House. More energetic walkers can complete the loop and add another two-mile circuit to see the Torc Waterfall.
For a more rugged and remote route, try the loops around the pristine Sheep’s Head Peninsula in County Cork. The short loop is only two-and-a-half miles around, but it requires boulder scrambling along rocky outcrops. Hikers here probably won’t run into another human being, but they will encounter plenty of black-faced sheep. The cliff-top views (especially those from the lighthouse at the peninsula’s tip) make this hike worth the effort. The loop begins and ends at a car park and visitor center — a good place to grab a snack and a T-shirt with “The Sheep’s Head Way” logo.
Most loop walks are a short drive from the towns and villages where visitors are likely to stay, such as Dublin, Killarney, Galway, Limerick, Cork, Bantry, and Shannon. While the walks are designed for independent travelers, you can find lists of tour operators who can lead the way. Go to irelandwalkingcycling.com or check with the local tourism office. For trail descriptions and info on planning a trip, call 800.223.6470 or visit walking.ireland.ie.
— Maryann Hammers
Map by Laura Coyle
Ireland
ROAD RULES
When it comes to navigating the roads of the British Isles, you may be forgiven for feeling a bit jittery — despite how good a driver you are. After all, there are remote road signs written in Gaelic, roundabouts to consider, sitting on the wrong side (or is that the “right” side?) of the car, and changing gears with the left hand. To make visitors feel a little more comfortable behind the wheel, Ireland’s Ashford Castle hotel pairs visiting drivers with experienced instructors for “How to Drive on the Left,” a two-hour theory and practice class. The session covers everything from maintaining concentration to safety tips and rules of the road. The cost is approximately $270 per couple. Ashford Castle is located north of Galway on 350 acres in County Mayo, along the shores of Lough Corrib and River Cong. For more info, visit ashford.ie.
— Celeste Moure
NEW YORK CITY
FEELS LIKE HOME
Travelers now have something extra to make them feel more at home during long-term business trips — a washer and dryer. At AKA Times Square, an upscale extended-stay hotel, guests can count on amenities like flat-screen TVs, cool art, and memory-foam mattresses with Egyptian cotton linens that are usually found at high-end hotels. But the in-room stacked Bosch washer and dryer might just be the latest travel must-have for the infinite business trip. That’s because AKA owner Larry Korman noticed that even furnished city apartments didn’t include a washer and dryer, and he wanted to offer the amenity as a convenience for guests staying longer than a few nights.
AKA’s properties offer more space and style than the average extended-stay property. The Sub–Zero refrigerator and extensive collection of kitchen tools, like measuring cups and bake ware, aren’t bad either. AKA has three other locations in the Big Apple and one each in White Plains, Philly, D.C., and London. For more info, visit hotelaka.com.
— Litty Mathew
WASHINGTON, D.C.
PARTY LINE
Want to explore D.C. without wearing out your walking shoes? Take a spin around town in a Bi-Partisan Tour Company open-air electric roadster. With GPS technology as your guide, follow a planned route, complete with audio narration. Or navigate the city on your own, without GPS or narration, through the company’s lower-cost rental program. The vehicles are painted red on one side and blue on the other and feature both Democrat and Republican symbols on the hood. You can even don a rubber mask featuring the likeness of your favorite political figure.
GPS-guided tours start at $30 an hour for each person (in addition to a $400 security deposit). One- to three-hour tours are available. Drivers must be at least 22 years old. To make reservations, call 202.558.6848 or log on to bipartisantourcompany.com.
— Julie Moore
Illustration by Jon Flaming
LAS VEGAS
NOW APPEARING
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london
TIME TRAVELERS
Every suitcase tells a story at Bentleys in London, thanks to owner Tim Bent’s worldwide travels in search of vintage luggage, heirloom trunks, and travel accessories from the 19th and early 20th centuries. As you wander the store, stop to admire an elegant Louis Vuitton hanging wardrobe trunk, or run your fingers over an early 19th-century mahogany medicine box inscribed with the name of its owner, “Mr. Selkirk – Surgeon – Newtonshaw.” There are hat cases and shoeboxes, antique steamers, and silver shaving brushes. And although the prices — which soar to $50,000 — may be prohibitive for most visitors, it’s a joy just to get lost amid the leather-covered trunks and crocodile cigar cases and imagine the places they’ve been. Among the relics is a men’s travel kit that dates to World War I. The kit holds shaving and grooming supplies and a journal, all in pristine condition. The store manager guesses it was an 18th-birthday gift for a boy who went off to battle and never returned.
Bentleys is at 204 Walton Street. To learn more, visit bentleyslondon.com.
— Maryann Hammers
North carolina
SHIVER THOSE TIMBERS
If you have even a hint of the buccaneer in you, you won’t want to miss a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to go inside Blackbeard’s Queen Anne’s Revenge. The legendary pirate ship is believed to have sunk off of North Carolina’s Outer Banks in 1718. From now until 2010, the state is allowing close to 1,000 divers to explore the historic shipwreck.
The special two-day dive package includes several classroom hours learning about the ship from archaeologists excavating the site. Getting up close to cannons, anchors, and original planks from the ship is a highlight of the 26-foot dive. The dive site is located about a mile off the coast of Morehead City (about 30 miles from New Bern or 75 miles from Wilmington). For 2008, dives are offered on various dates from June through August. The cost is $500 per person. For info on scheduling a dive, visit qaronline.org and click on the Dive Down logo.
If you’re more of a landlubber, stop by the North Carolina Maritime Museum in Beaufort. There’s a replica of Queen Anne’s Revenge along with artifacts excavated from the shipwreck. To find out more, call 252.728.1638 or visit ah.dcr.state.nc.us/sections/maritime.
— Karen Schaler
phoenix
POOCH PARADISE
Need to stretch your legs between flights? Chances are Fido does, too. The number of passengers asking about designated pet areas at Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport prompted staff to create two dog parks. The Bone Yard is located outside of Terminal 4 and includes a fenced-in area for exercise and potty breaks. The dog park received such high praise from passengers traveling with pets that the Paw Pad opened a few years later outside of Terminal 3. Both pet parks offer water fountains and buckets for preboarding refreshments and “mutt mitts” for picking up after pets. Most of the dogs visiting the park are traveling, but it’s also a popular spot for K9 officers and their partners, as well as pets that come to the airport to help pick up their loved ones.
Several airports including Portland International in Oregon, Denver International, and San Diego International also offer designated pet rest areas. The facilities range from small grassy spots designed only for pet relief to landscaped parks like the one at Austin-Bergstrom International Airport in Texas, which includes pet drinking fountains and a dog park shaped like a figure eight.
— Jodi Helmer
BOSTON
IN THE BAG
The high-end boutiques lining Newbury Street are sure to have the latest handbags from designer labels like Chanel and Burberry. But none will be quite so unique as the one you build yourself at 1154 Lill Studio. It’s one of three do-it-yourself purse shops that Jennifer Velarde has opened since 2001. The original is located in Chicago, and another is in Kansas City; a fourth location is scheduled to open this month in Philadelphia. You can choose from 25 different styles and more than 250 fabrics as you mix and match designs to create your own unique handbag. The studio sews it all together and ships your custom-made purse to you within three to four weeks. If you can’t make it to the store, you can also go online to create and order one. For details, visit 1154lill.com.
— Jackie Dishner
LOS ANGELES
VINO VENDOR
Who needs a sommelier? At Vinum Populi (“wine for the people”), all you need is a debit card. This hi-tech, self-serve wine bar in Culver City dispenses one-ounce pours with the touch of a button. Just insert a prepaid card into the Enomatic (a vending machine for wine), and you’re ready to sip and savor. With 48 wines to choose from, deciding which one to taste first is the only difficult part. The cost for each glass — from $0.68 to $16 — is deducted from your card, making this a great way to taste several wines, especially the more expensive bottles.
Italian reds are Vinum’s specialty, but you’ll find selections from around the world, including a few whites. (10–20 bottles are rotated each week.) Each bottle is kept fresh in the Enomatic machine by a layer of Argon gas that creates a seal to keep it from oxidizing. (The ancient Romans floated olive oil for the same effect.) Enomatics originated in Tuscany and can be found at venues throughout the U.S. and Europe.
Vinum was the first wine lounge in L.A. with Enomatics. The cozy, elegant space features exposed brick walls, dim lights, and candles that add old-world charm to the otherwise modern decor. The atmosphere is welcoming and creates a sense of community conducive to mingling; customers enjoy gathering around the Enomatics to discuss their favorite wines. Plus, you don’t have to wait and get a bartender’s attention in order to be served: Just press a button and savor.
— Liz Laing
CHARLOTTE
DEGREE OF TASTE
Since Johnson & Wales University opened its Charlotte Campus in the fall of 2004, the Queen City tastes better than ever. The school’s College of Culinary Arts has an enrollment of more than a thousand students, and since many of them take over local kitchens after they graduate, diners are reaping the benefits.
“Johnson & Wales isn’t just educating students, it’s also educating the dining public,” says Bill Bigham, a personal chef who retired from a 33-year career with Procter & Gamble before pursuing a culinary degree from J&W at age 56. “With Johnson & Wales graduates and students in virtually every restaurant in the city, the school’s presence has provided nothing short of a dining revolution here.”
J&W alum Tom Condron and self-taught wizard Jim Noble are two major players on the Charlotte dining scene who have welcomed local grads. “We love to hire Johnson & Wales students and graduates because we know we’ll get the passion and skills,” says Noble, who is known for using locally sourced ingredients at his Noble’s Restaurant (a Charlotte “don’t miss”) and his Rooster’s Wood-Fired Kitchen (featuring spit-roasted meats).
Condron is the executive chef of Harper’s Restaurant Group. The Mediterranean-leaning M5 is their newest hotspot, but other Condron creations like Mimosa Grill and Upstream continue to draw rave reviews. Condron also lures lots of J&W students and alumni looking to become the next Emeril — also a J&W grad. The famous chef has a teaching kitchen dedicated to him at the Charlotte Campus.
The Charlotte dining scene boasts several other tasty options with J&W connections. J&W grad Nick LaVecchia founded LaVecchia’s Seafood Grille. J&W alum Trey Wilson is executive chef at Customshop, and Pierre Bader hires lots of local students and graduates for his two downtown restaurants, Town and Sonoma Modern.
— Lynn Seldon
LOS ANGELES
BEYOND WONTONS
Going out for Chinese in L.A. now means first deciding what kind of this tasty cuisine to try. With more than 400,000 Chinese immigrants in the area, hundreds of regional restaurants now cater to discerning palates looking for a taste of home. Here are some of the best.
Islamic
Islamic influence in China dates to the mid-seventh century, especially in the north, where the cuisine relies on wheat breads, noodles, lamb, and beef — a distinct departure from the rice-based cooking known to most of the country. At China Islamic Restaurant, sesame scallion bread is the ideal accompaniment to thin slices of cumin-flavored lamb or the oxtail stew served in a clay pot. An order of knife-cut noodles with cabbage and beef is also a must.
7727 E. Garvey Ave., Rosemead
626.288.4246
Taiwanese
Don’t be intimidated by the menu without prices at Din Tai Fung, the only U.S. branch of the famous Taipei dumpling house. A steamer of juicy crab and pork dumplings, stir-fried veggies of the day, and a bowl of braised beef noodle soup are within most budgets. The wait can be long, but you can enjoy the time watching through a plate-glass window as cooks expertly fold dumplings and perform other culinary feats.
1108 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia
626.574.7068
Sichuan
The abundant use of dried red chilies and tongue-numbing Sichuan peppercorns (which are key elements of southwestern China’s cuisine) leave some diners in tears — but usually from sheer joy. Regulars at Chung King recommend the fried chicken with red chilies, an explosion of crispy chicken cubes seasoned with ginger, garlic, and chilies, and the benign-sounding boiled fish, a hotpot of mild, flaky fish in a spicy oil broth flavored with pickled vegetables.
206 S. Garfield Ave., Monterey Park
626.280.7430
Shanghai
Not so much a regional cuisine as a cosmopolitan and eclectic method of cooking, the Shanghai-style fare at Green Village is one of the area’s notable offerings. The addictive Wuxi-style eel is a crispy-sweet crunch of pleasure. The hairy crab and fried croaker (fish, not frog) with liver moss might sound intimidating, but the dishes come to the table looking quite appealing. And they taste absolutely delicious.
250 W. Valley Blvd., No. M
San Gabriel
626.576.2228
Chiu Chow
Chiu Chow is a Cantonese style of cooking that focuses on seafood. At Newport Seafood, the waiter might look at you askance if you order anything but the special lobster or crab, a sticky, spicy, and garlicky combination of sauce and sweet flesh. Other notable dishes include Shaking Beef and sautéed pea greens (when they’re in season).
835 W. Las Tunas Dr., San Gabriel
626.289.5998
— Litty Mathew
united kingdom
BOOK IT
U.K.–bound bookworms with a penchant for author readings, novel signings, and bookshop hopping will want to head for a tented complex in the lush Welsh countryside this May when the 21st annual Hay Festival cracks open its cover.
Originally a slim novella of events for chin-stroking intellectuals, the bookish fiesta — once described by Bill Clinton as “the Woodstock of the mind” — has since broadened its appeal and grown into a two-week multi-volume encyclopedia of 450 shows.
During my visit last year, the biggest challenge was choosing what to see. Arriving early on the sunny first day, I strolled covered boardwalks between large marquees (all the time stealing glances into the tempting bookshop tent), and then stretched out on the grass to look over the schedule.
While admission fees are charged for most shows (including appearances from blockbuster scribes like recent attendees John Grisham, J.K. Rowling, and Stephen King), there are also some free and unexpected events. I chose a music concert, a Gordon Brown reading, and a Q&A with Schindler’s List author Thomas Keneally.
After picking up my weekend tickets, I sauntered to the nearby village for lunch. A charming clutch of stone cottages and country pubs, Hay-on-Wye is a year-round pilgrimage spot for book lovers. With a population of just 1,350, it’s home to 42 new, used, and themed bookshops, including one in a creaky-floored castle. Within minutes, my credit card was nearing its limit and packing for home was already looking like it would pose a major challenge.
— John Lee
Map by Laura Coyle
PITTSBURGH
BIG BITES
Philly may have the cheesesteak, but Pittsburgh offers its own smorgasbord of hand-held meal options. Here’s where to go for the city’s best sandwiches.
Union Grill
This Oakland establishment boasts great burgers and cheap beer, but it’s also one of the few places to serve a trademark Pittsburgh specialty called the Turkey Devonshire, an open-faced sandwich topped with thick-cut roast turkey, sliced tomatoes, a healthy slathering of hot parmesan cheese sauce, and crispy strips of bacon.
413 S. Craig St.
412.681.8620
Primanti Bros.
This local chain is the home of a famous Pittsburgh original: grilled slices of deli meat, tomato, coleslaw, and thick-cut fries, piled high and stuffed between two large slices of bread. You won’t need any sides with this one. The sandwich was invented to give blue-collar workers a full meal they could hold in one hand. Primanti Bros. stays open late to satisfy all your night owl cravings — for 50 cents, you can add a fried egg to your sandwich and call it breakfast.
46 18th St. (original location)
412.263.2142
primantibrothers.com
Fat Heads
A South Side neighborhood institution, Fat Heads is home to a dizzying selection of beers, fantastic burgers, and a legendary breed of sandwich called the Headwich (which, as the name suggests, is roughly the size of your head). Every Headwich is delicious, but for a true taste of pure Pittsburgh decadence, don’t miss the Southside Slopes: a jumbo-sized bun loaded up with kielbasa, fried pierogies, American cheese, grilled onions, and horseradish sauce.
1805 E. Carson St.
412.431.7433
fatheads.com
Carson Street Deli
As far as classic delicatessens go, this landmark, also in the lively South Side neighborhood, rivals the best of the Big Apple. Take your pick from the Po’ Boy (a Cajun-style crab-cake sandwich on a crusty baguette, topped with tartar or Louisiana hot sauce), the hearty Sicilian (fresh Italian prosciutto, spicy capicollo, salami, roasted red peppers, and provolone cheese), or any of the deli’s other belly-pleasing specialties.
1700 E. Carson St.
412.381.5335
carsonstreetdeli.com
— Kathryn Hawkins
Map by Laura Coyle
LAS VEGAS
LEAST EXPECTED
What comes to mind when you think about Vegas? Most likely it’s casinos, hotels, and entertainment. Now imagine this. One morning you find yourself on a mountain bike, freewheeling along remote routes that intersect with wild-horse trails. In the afternoon, you ditch the bike and go on a sunset horseback ride in the shadows of 2,000-foot sandstone cliffs. The next day, you climb in Red Rock Canyon, the fifth most popular rock climbing destination in the U.S., or you sign up for a guided kayak adventure that sets off at the base of Hoover Dam and stops downriver along the way for a soak in natural hot springs.
None of this is what you expected from a Vegas vacation. But it’s exactly what you can experience when you sign up for these activities and more through the Adventure Spa at Red Rock Casino, Resort & Spa. This chic and ultra-modern desert retreat is located ten miles west of the strip and right next to stunning Red Rock Canyon and other state parks. To top off an adrenaline-fueled day, the spa offers rejuvenating and relaxing treatments. Try the Ashiatsu massage, which involves footwork on your back by a masseuse who hangs (à la Cirque du Soleil) from bars suspended from the ceiling. To find out more, visit redrocklasvegas.com.
— Celeste Moure
VERMONT
CONFECTION PERFECTION
It’s the sweetest time of year in Vermont — maple sugaring season. You can learn more about this annual tradition at the New England Maple Museum, located in the foothills of the Green Mountains in Pittsford, about a 90-minute drive south of Burlington. The museum features the world’s most comprehensive collection of maple sugaring artifacts. Visitors are guided through 200 years of maple sugaring history as they learn about one of Vermont’s most important industries.
The museum’s exhibits combine elements of history, culture, nature, and technology and are designed to appeal to people of all ages. See the history of maple sugaring depicted in a series of murals that stretches more than 100 feet. Then get a closeup look at an array of tools, from an ancient block of wood that American Indians used to collect sap to the modern plastic pipeline in use today. See authentic evaporators simulate the syrup-making process, and check out live demos of maple candy making.
Cap off your visit with a stop in the tasting room, where you can sample various grades of maple syrup and a variety of Vermont specialty foods, including maple butter and maple drops. The museum opens this month for the 2008 season. Learn more at maplemuseum.com.
— Chelan David
PHILADELPHIA
FIRST OFF
Philly’s claims to fame are many: The city served as the first U.S. capital, introduced the country to professional football, and ushered in the computer age. But that’s not all. Check out these Philly superlatives on your next visit.
America’s Oldest Street in Continuous Use
Elfreth’s Alley has been home to thousands of people over the past three centuries. The first row houses were constructed here in the early 1700s, and today you’ll find 32 homes that are still privately owned and occupied. The Elfreth’s Alley Museum is the only building on the street that’s open to the public. Guided tours are offered daily and explore what life was like in Philly’s early days.
elfrethsalley.org
America’s Oldest Theater
Founded in 1809, Walnut Street Theatre is not only a National Historic Landmark; it’s also the most subscribed regional theater company in the world. The Walnut hosted equestrian acts during its first few years, but it has since showcased hundreds of theatrical productions featuring such stage greats as Jack Lemmon, Jane Fonda, Katharine Hepburn, and Jessica Tandy.
walnutstreettheatre.org
America’s Oldest and Largest Outdoor Market
Philly’s 9th Street Italian Market hasn’t changed much in the past 100 years. The birthplace of the cheesesteak and the soft pretzel is still the best spot to find a little piece of Italy — and a whole lot more. The market features four cheese stores, seven meat markets, four fish merchants, more than 40 produce vendors, two bakeries, several cafes and delis, and much more. Come hungry.
phillyitalianmarket.com
America’s Largest Municipal Building
Larger than even the U.S. Capitol, Philadelphia City Hall is more than just a home for government offices; it’s also an architectural gem. Construction on the 700-room building began in 1871 and took 30 years to complete. Its elaborate style was influenced by Paris’ Palais des Tuileries and the Louvre. The building contains more than 250 sculptures, including the 37-foot bronze statue of William Penn that tops the clock tower. Tours are offered Monday through Friday.
phila.gov/property/virtualcityhall
— Julie Moore
LAS VEGAS
EXCLUSIVE ENGAGEMENT
“Fuggedaboutit.” That’s the response you’ll likely get if you call Rao’s restaurant in New York City for a reservation. Technically open to the public, Rao’s is run more like a private club, with regulars (who have included celebrities ranging from the late Frank Sinatra to Woody Allen) renting their tables annually. The fact that there are only ten tables and one nightly seating for dinner Monday through Friday adds to the mystique.
Now everyone can experience the classic home-style Southern Italian food and speakeasy ambiance that has made Rao’s an NYC institution for 112 years. Rao’s in Caesars Palace is much larger than the original location and is open seven nights a week. Guests flock to the restaurant for signature dishes such as the enormous but lighter-than-air meatballs and Uncle Vincent’s Famous Lemon Chicken.
For purists, the Caesars Palace edition boasts two self-contained rooms that are near re-creations of the original Rao’s. Each has ten tables, a six-seat bar, and celebrity photos on the walls. In these rooms, just as in New York, there is no menu — just waiters with very good memories.
To make reservations at Rao’s at Caesars Palace, call 877.346.4642. For more info on both locations, visit raos.com.
— Larry Olmsted
PARIS
FREEWHEELING CITY
Experience Paris in the springtime — on two wheels — with the city’s new eco-friendly Vélib bicycle transit system. The program launched July 15 last year (the day after Bastille Day), giving Parisians a taste of a very 21st-century sort of freedom — freedom from public transport, taxis, and cars. The name Vélib continues the theme: It’s taken from the French words “vélo” for bike and “liberté” for freedom.
The self-serve program allows Parisians and tourists to pick up and drop off silver three-gear bikes at about 1,450 stations throughout the city, so you’ll find one just about every 900 feet. With more than 20,000 bikes in the system, Vélib is designed for short trips. A one-day access card is just one euro, and the first half-hour is free. After that, though, the euros begin to pile up, and a fee of $205 is charged to your credit card if your bike goes missing.
Biking is one of the safest ways to get around the city, but since Paris has no helmet laws, it’s a good idea to bring your own headgear. For info on planning a visit, see France’s official tourism site at us.franceguide.com.
— Caroline Tiger
Illustration by Jon Flaming
- A NUTTY ADVENTURE / by Barry Yeoman
- FOWL SO FAIR / by Steve Jermanok
- UPHILL BATTLE / by Larry Olmsted
- VERBATIM: FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA / by J. Rentilly
- ALTER EGO: GRANT HILL / by Ranald Totten
- 9 HOLES WITH… JOHN ROLLINS / by John Maginnes
- MATERIAL WORLD
- OUR DIGITAL LIFE / by Dan Tynan
- FOOD FROM THE EDGE / by John T. Edge
- SAVE MY CAREER / by Donald Asher
- SMART BUSINESS / by C. J. Prince
- DEPARTURE
- ALL OVER THE MAP
