There’s a treasure that the island of Jamaica shares with the rest of the world. Its name is Bob Marley.

Marley’s rise to universal acclaim seems to have defied the odds. If you visit the hardscrabble hamlet of Nine Mile, the site of Marley’s birthplace and mausoleum, you can’t help but wonder how music from such a meager village became one of the island’s biggest exports, or how a child surrounded by extreme poverty and prejudice grew up to be, as the New York Times proclaimed, “the most influential musician of the second half of the 20th century.”

But when you meet Jamaicans, with their hearty laughs, easy ways, and joyful smiles, you realize that Marley’s inspiration was around him all along. His forthright messages of peace, love, and redemption are as much a part of Jamaica as the coconut, mangoes, and breadfruit on the trees.

At first, visitors to the friendly island can be caught off guard when they first hear a local turn of phrase: “Wat a gwaan?” (What’s going on?), or “Everyting irie?” (Is everything alright?). But when Jamaicans hum a Bob Marley tune, or break into song — as they are prone to do — the connection is instantaneous. Let’s get together and feel alright…. The message is universal, and it’s one that Jamaicans embrace. “Bob Marley isn’t something that happened in the ’70s or the ’80s or the ’90s,” says Donald Sewell of the Jamaica Tourist Board. “In Jamaica, Bob Marley is something that happens every day.”

Jamaica has plenty of warm weather and glorious beaches, to be sure, but these draws are commonplace in the always-sunny Caribbean. No, what has lured visitors to Jamaica for generations is the lifestyle, the culture, and the people. And while resort towns like Montego Bay and Negril might have pride of place when it comes to name recognition, no locale personifies the island’s spirit more than Ocho Rios, a storied region along the north coast that’s long been coveted by the well-heeled set for its comfortable living, tranquil waters, and sunny disposition.

Ocho Rios was originally settled around 1000 B.C. by an Arawakan tribe known as the Tainos, who dubbed their new home Xaymaca, meaning “land of wood and water.” The region’s first tourist may have been Christopher Columbus; when he landed in nearby Discovery Bay in 1494, he declared Jamaica “the fairest isle mine eyes ever beheld” and promptly claimed the land for Spain. Over 160 years later, the British decided the island was worth fighting for, and in 1658 they defeated the Spanish at the battle of Rio Nuevo to claim Jamaica as their own, including the area called “las chorreras.” The British misheard it as “Ocho Rios,” and the name stuck.

For nearly three centuries, few outside of Jamaica had heard of this quiet fishing village. But after World War II, the discovery of bauxite deposits led to the construction of a deep-water pier that made the region more accessible, at a time when ocean liners were still the primary means of intercontinental travel. Celebrities seeking seclusion and relaxation descended on Ocho Rios en masse, prompting the development of resorts that placed a premium on privacy, first-class accommodations, and service. One of the first and most famous of these is the Jamaica Inn, which opened in 1950 and counts Winston Churchill among its first guests.

Teddy Tucker, who’s been tending the resort’s bar since 1958, recalls serving the hotel’s signature cocktail, Planter’s Punch — a tasty concoction of fresh lime juice, simple syrup, Myers’s rum, and Angostura bitters — to a bevy of celebrities and politicos, including T.S. Eliot, King Peter II of Yugoslavia, Joan Collins, Princess Margaret, Hedy Lamarr, Noel Coward, Ginger Rogers, and more. Today, the resort is still ranked as one of the top 50 hotels in the world, the No. 3 hotel in the Caribbean, and the No. 1 hotel in Jamaica, according to Travel + Leisure readers. The White Suite, where Winston Churchill spent hours painting and writing, remains the most requested room.

Jamaica’s long history as a British colony — the island didn’t gain full independence until 1962 — made it a natural getaway for Brits seeking sunny climes and a relaxed pace. One of these was a British intelligence officer named Ian Fleming. In 1946, Fleming purchased 15 acres near the banana port of Oracabessa and planned to retire there. “I am going to live in Jamaica,” Fleming told a friend. “Just live in Jamaica and lap it up, and swim in the sea and write books.” Fleming called his property “Goldeneye,” after the code name for a secret mission he had conceived during World War II.

In 1952, Fleming sat at his desk and penned the first James Bond novel, Casino Royale. Seeking a name for his hero — he wanted a short, anonymous name that was also strong and masculine — Fleming glanced toward his bookcase. On a shelf, he noticed a rather inconspicuous book titled Birds of the West Indies by James Bond — and the search was at an end. Over the next 12 years at Goldeneye, Fleming conceived 13 novels chronicling the dapper character’s adventures. He even went so far as to say he doubted the books ever would have come about if he hadn’t been “living in the gorgeous vacuum of a Jamaican holiday.”

Today, Goldeneye is a feather in the cap of Island Outpost resorts, an eclectic group of upscale Jamaican and Bahamian hotels owned by Chris Blackwell, founder of Island Records and the man responsible for introducing Bob Marley, U2, and many other artists to the world. In addition to Fleming House, Blackwell has developed the property to include a number of smaller villas, with the bedrooms in each named after a different Bond femme fatale (Vesper, Honeychile, Solitaire, and so on).

Blackwell is also currently at work constructing 80 new cottages and villas on the property, with the aim of creating high-end accommodations infused with the Jamaican lifestyle. The grounds are lush with fruit trees, and the property’s centerpiece is a stunning freshwater lagoon. Local chefs follow old family recipes, preparing traditional cuisine from the region’s fresh seafood and unique ingredients. And the developer is committed to socially responsible tourism: A portion of each guest’s expenditures goes to his nonprofit organization, Oracabessa Foundation, which serves as a catalyst for sustainable development by providing the island’s underprivileged with education and health care and by promoting projects for community development.

All told, Ramsey Dacosta has worked at Goldeneye for 32 years. His early duties included cleaning the beach, tending the garden, and climbing trees to gather coconuts for “Commander” Fleming’s breakfast. “He didn’t tell us his business,” Ramsey says, referring to Fleming’s days at Goldeneye. Ramsey often saw Fleming tapping away at his typewriter, but he never imagined that Fleming was creating the character who would become the world’s most famous spy. Today, at the age of 70, Ramsey still works at Goldeneye and leads tours of the property. “The people in Jamaica live very good,” Ramsey says. “I would never leave my island.”

Sadly, many visitors to Jamaica never experience the island’s rich heritage. The latest crop of all-inclusive mega-resorts in and around Ocho Rios definitely have their perks — rooms are pristine and modern, common areas palatial, the beaches top-rate, and there’s a non-stop party by the pool — but few travel barriers seem as impenetrable as the one between these resorts and the Jamaica beyond their property lines. It’s quite possible — embarrassingly simple, even — to visit Jamaica and never leave your hotel. To visit the true Jamaica, greet Jamaican children in their bright green or brown school uniforms; savor spicy jerk pork or grilled lobster from a roadside stand; or sample a patty, a fried meat pie that Jamaicans gobble up at the rate of 2.5 million per day. Then you can say you’ve visited Jamaica.

Do this: Hire a driver. JUTA Tours and Maxi Tours are reputable companies. Look for a large, yellow JTB sticker in a corner of the windshield. This certifies that — besides taking his job seriously — the driver has completed an extensive Team Jamaica course offered by the Jamaica Tourist Board and has studied Jamaican history, first aid, and hospitality.

Visit Faith’s Pen, a string of roadside food stands in the green Jamaican hills, for an authentic Jamaican lunch of jerk pork and chicken, rice and peas, roasted breadfruit, roasted yam, and akee and saltfish, the national dish of Jamaica. Drive through lush Fern Gully, showcasing more than 500 species of fern. Say hello to Carl, the “Fern Gully Man.” You can’t miss him: He lives in a cave at the side of the road and uses indigenous fruits and flora to educate passersby on traditional Jamaican practices. Stop at the late Noel Coward’s celebrated Firefly estate for some of the best views on the island. Discover Jamaica’s plantation history at Prospect Plantation. Duck into the Green Grotto Caves, where scenes from the James Bond film Live and Let Die were shot. Climb Dunn’s River Falls. Take a bamboo raft down the Martha Brae River. Watch a red-billed streamertail hummingbird, the national bird of Jamaica, perch on your finger and drink nectar from a miniature plastic rum bottle at the Rockland Bird Sanctuary and Feeding Station.

Make the trip to tiny Nine Mile to see the flowers, poems, paintings, and photographs that people from all over the world leave at the gravesite of Bob Marley.

On the drive back to your hotel…sing.

GETTING THERE
US Airways flies to Montego Bay year-round from Philadelphia and Charlotte and offers seasonal service from Boston. Many of the all-inclusive resorts provide shuttle service from the airport to Ocho Rios. Other options for getting to Ocho Rios include shuttle service, taxi, or rental car.

GETTING AROUND
JUTA Tours (Ocho Rios)
Dalton Taxi Service
876.859.4522
jutatoursjamaica.com

Maxi Tours
876.974.2971
maxitoursjamaica.com

WHERE TO STAY
Jamaica Inn
Long considered a top Caribbean resort.
800.837.4608
jamaicainn.com

Goldeneye
Relax amid lush accommodations, and feel good knowing part of the proceeds of your stay will be used to improve the local community.
800.688.7678
goldeneyehotel.com

Beaches Boscobel
This family resort has the family vacation down to a science, from the water park to the Sesame Street characters.
888.232.2437
beaches.com/main/bo/bo-home.cfm

WHAT TO DO
Nine Mile
Visit Bob Marley’s birthplace and mausoleum.
305.665.5379
ninemilejamaica.com

Fern Gully
Drive or hike through the lush Jamaican interior.

Firefly
Once a lookout for the famous privateer Sir Admiral Henry Morgan, this became playwright Noel Coward’s estate and final resting place. It’s now a museum administered by Island Outpost for the Jamaican National Heritage Trust.

Dunn’s River Falls
Climb through rushing waterfalls, one of Jamaica’s top attractions.
876.974.2857
dunnsriverfallsja.com

Green Grotto Caves
Runaway slaves, pirates, and others hid out in these mysterious green caves, which served as the villain Kananga’s underground lair in Live and Let Die.
876.973.2841
greengrottocavesja.com

Ocho Rios is home to some of the world’s most inviting resorts, but you’ll need to get up and get out if you want to discover the real Jamaica. Here are a few suggestions on things to do and where to eat.

 

ATTRACTIONS
Dolphin Cove
Swim with dolphins, interact with stingrays (barbs removed), and feed sharks at this popular aquatic park.
876.974.5335, dolphincovejamaica.com

Prospect Plantation
Discover Jamaica’s rich plantation heritage at this 1,000-acre working plantation. Tours feature horseback rides, camel treks, and tractor-drawn carriages, and include a trip to Dunn’s River Falls.
876.994.1058, prospectplantationtours.com

ReggaeXplosion
Multimedia exhibits cover the history and influence of Jamaica’s greatest export. You’ll find the museum at Island Village, where there’s a variety of restaurants, bars, and duty-free shops.
islandjamaica.com/islandvillage.htm

Coyaba Gardens
Explore the botanical garden, Taino/Arawak Indian museum, and waterfalls.
876.974.6235, coyabagardens.com

Bamboo Rafting at the Martha Brae River
A uniquely Jamaican experience.
876.940.6398, jamaicarafting.com

Rockland Bird Sanctuary and Feeding Station
Bird lover Lisa Salmon spent six years convincing wild Jamaican hummingbirds to eat from her hand so it would only take five minutes for you to experience it.
876.952.2009

Wassi Art
Peruse traditional Jamaican pottery and other crafts.
876.974.5044, wassiart.com

DINING
Faith’s Pen
More than two dozen vendors sell traditional Jamaican fare alongside the main road from Ocho Rios to Spanish Town. It doesn’t get any more authentic than this.

Scotchies Ocho Rios
For traditional jerk cuisine, Scotchies is a Jamaican institution. You’ll find it in the village of Coral Gardens.

The Ruins at the Falls
Jamaican and Asian dishes in a lush, outdoor setting that includes a waterfall. Look familiar? Scenes from the James Bond film Live and Let Die were shot here.
876.974.8888, ruinsjamaica.com

Ocho Rios Jerk Center
Enjoy jerk chicken, pork, fish, and conch at this open-air restaurant.
876.974.2549

Dean Blaine is a travel writer based in San Francisco.