When the Mexican government decided in the late 1960s to transform a wild strip of jungle on the northeastern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula into a world-class tourist destination, they hoped the region’s pristine beaches and nearby Mayan ruins would draw some of the millions of people who vacationed each year in the Caribbean Basin. The location they chose was a swampy region called Kan Kun, which in Mayan translates into the ominous phrase “nest of snakes,” or “pot of snakes.” But the governmental agencies, working in conjunction with Mexican financiers, had crafted a master plan to ensure the city now called Cancun would have everything necessary to transform the area into a vacation paradise.

And it worked. After just four years of planning and construction, the city’s first three hotels opened in 1974; five years later that number had increased to around 50. Today, Cancun is Mexico’s top resort city, home to over 125 hotels and more than 27,000 rooms. That exponential growth, however, meant that Cancun no longer enjoyed its status as an upscale getaway for travelers in the know. Instead, its reputation for luxury and sophistication was replaced by a nonstop-party image, fueled in part by the hordes of spring breakers flocking there each year.

But after Hurricane Wilma decimated much of Cancun’s hotel zone in 2005, the region decided to use the rebuilding efforts as a chance to reinvent itself. Special emphasis was placed on developing exclusive escapes along the Riviera Maya, which stretches from the area near Puerto Morelos south of Cancun to the ancient Mayan cities of Tulum and Coba.

When I heard of the effort, I was intrigued. Could the chic resorts and boutique hotels now dotting the coast attract discriminating travelers like those who once considered Cancun a favorite destination?

My trip began in Cancun proper, where I discovered a resort that since its opening in 1993 has refused to cater to the boys-and-girls-gone-wild vibe that’s common in other parts of the city: The Ritz-Carlton. As part of the post-Wilma recovery efforts, the hotel (the only Ritz-Carlton property in the country) shelled out $15 million for across-the-board renovations — everything, from the rooms and the pool and fitness area to the spa, has been significantly upgraded.

A new addition to the property is the Culinary Center, where chef de cuisine Rory Dunaway heads gourmet-cooking lessons for guests. The small class size (only 14 participants maximum) means everyone receives personal attention — even the culinarily challenged can learn to create some amazing dishes. Guided tequila and wine tastings that focus on regional products are offered three nights a week. Also new to the resort is the Cliff Drysdale Tennis Center, which offers clinics and tournaments year-round.

But as impressive as the revamped Ritz-Carlton is, the traveler seeking to escape the crowds of the city will sooner or later need to hit the road — Highway 307, to be precise — and head south for the Riviera Maya. Car rentals are easily available in Cancun, and American drivers should have few problems exploring the region so long as they stay alert for potholes and other hazards on unfamiliar dirt roads.

 

About a half-hour south of Cancun, I came to my first stop, the new 401-room Fairmont Mayakoba, a family-friendly resort surrounded by lush tropical foliage and dozens of lagoons. No cars are allowed, so to get around you must use a bicycle, ride in lagoon boats, or flag down one of the electric carts traveling between the five pools, the four restaurants, and the beach.

I spent my first day lolling at the swim-up bar and kicking back next to one of the resort’s two infinity-edge pools. Later I discovered the Willow Stream Spa and tried the 90-minute Cha Chac Rain Ritual, which involves entering a mystical rain room and receiving a traditional Mayan blessing. The word “Cha” means to “let go” or “letting loose,” and that’s exactly what happens as your body is slathered with a mask of cornmeal, clay, and oats. Another reason to visit the spa is the Bento Box meals: They’re overflowing with all sorts of goodies intended to enhance energy and balance.

With four restaurants on the property serving internationally inspired cuisine, you can enjoy impressive culinary variety. Las Brisas is the perfect choice for an intimate first-class dining experience, while Café Maya is your ticket for a quick snack. Head to El Lobby Lounge for a cocktail, botanas (the Mexican word for tapas), and live entertainment in the evenings.

 

Just a few minutes away, I came across the exquisite beachfront boutique property of Maroma Resort and Spa, an exclusive hotel known for hosting A-list celebrities like Tom Cruise. (We heard that Cruise liked Maroma’s food so much that he took the chef with him when he left.) Maroma has a reputation for discretion, and all guests are treated like family. We mingled with several celebrities during our stay and never saw anyone bother them with requests for an autograph or picture.

Maroma’s 65 rooms range from thoughtfully appointed “garden rooms” (for the lush foliage surrounding them) to lavish suites. At the beach, you’ll find amazing aquamarine water and sand as white as talcum powder. The resort also boasts one of the most spiritual spas in the Mexican Caribbean, Kinan Spa. Kinan means “source of the sun” in Mayan, and the retreat features a temazcal (similar to a North American Indian sweat lodge), where healing ceremonies are held at dusk. In the signature Kinan Ritual, you’re loosely wrapped in sheets infused with healing herbs, then exfoliated before receiving a blissful four-hand Lomi-Lomi massage. The spa also offers a unique Mud Bar, where you choose from four different kinds of mud and apply it at your leisure in one of the saunas or steam rooms. Cilantro, the spa’s restaurant, serves up a variety of tasty, but healthy treats.

The other two restaurants at the resort serve everything from champagne breakfasts to sophisticated gourmet entrees infused with local flair. And at Freddy’s Bar, I found my favorite margarita in Mexico. There’s no better place to drink one of Freddy’s masterpieces than on one of Maroma’s comfy beach beds, while your beach butler stands by to deliver refills or any snacks you might crave.

The luxury of the Maroma may tempt you to never leave the resort grounds, but this is, after all, the Riviera Maya — which means that gorgeous beaches and brilliant blue water beckon. Those searching for opportunities for diving or snorkeling will find themselves in seventh heaven: The world’s second-largest coral reef is situated in front of the hotel, a mere ten-minute boat ride away.

 

For my final stop, I traveled a few miles south to the Tides Riviera Maya Resort (formerly Ikal Del Mar) outside of Playa del Carmen. With just 30 villas, this beachfront honeymooner’s favorite is truly a hidden treasure. I arrived after dark and was escorted by candlelight to my villa. (There’s no artificial outdoor lighting.)

Hesitantly following my guide down a jungle maze, I began to worry that I’d never be able to find my way out again — but all my fears vanished when I saw my villa. The Mayan design is breathtaking in its simplicity. The one-thousand-square-foot villa I stayed in has a private pool, a beautiful canopied king-size bed, and a deluxe bathroom boasting indoor and outdoor showers. After a short time in the villa, I frankly didn’t care if I ever found my way home again.

It was a feeling that only intensified when I visited the Maya Spa the next day for my Maya Crepuscular Massage. This treatment focuses on stretching muscles, utilizing a volcanic clay massage that relieves stress and is said to release negative energy. Another highlight is a new treatment in which a local Mayan shaman chants as your body is covered in sacred seeds to help promote good health, prosperity, and love.

For lunch, we took part in a special Mayan cooking class to learn native cooking techniques using a reproduction of an outdoor kitchen employed by ancient Mayans. Several hours later, the quest for local flavor continued with a private ceviche and tequila tasting. The Tides’ chef, Cupertino Ortiz, served up an eight-course tasting that brought Mayan and Yucatan flavors to caviar, seared scallops, lobster, braised beef, and the fresh fish of the day.

The next morning, I ventured about an hour south to the heart of the Yucatan jungle and explored the ancient ruins at Coba and Tulum. To cool off, I stopped to snorkel in the Grand Cenote, one of the area’s most beautiful underground wells and part of the region’s second-largest cave system, and followed that up with dinner at The Royal Hideaway Playacar, an all-inclusive property where guests are greeted with a glass of champagne. To unwind after a day of exploration and physical activity, I headed to the resort’s spa, where the decadent Diamond Massage put the sparkle back in my step. There are several world-class restaurants to choose from at Royal Hideaway; I selected a charming table on the terrace at Palazzo and dined on the puffed pastry stuffed with portobello mushrooms and mozzarella cheese, and chowder overflowing with clams and shrimp.

As I packed my bags the next morning and prepared to return to the workaday world, I couldn’t help but wonder if success would spoil the Riviera Maya. It’s true there’s a strong emphasis on sustainable development that was lacking when Cancun was built, but there are many opportunities for developers to push the envelope in order to cash in on the region’s natural beauty. There’s no way to know for sure how it will all turn out, but I’m certain of one thing: I will be back to find out.

HOW TO GET THERE
US Airways offers nonstop flights to Cancun from Boston, Phoenix, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, and Charlotte.

GETTING AROUND
Because many of the hotels in the Riviera Maya are located near Highway 307, a rental car should work fine for most people. If you’d rather not drive, check out the car service offered by CEO (Corporate Event Organizers) Mexico. The staff’s English is excellent, and they can set up tours or side trips.
cancunceodmc.com

WHERE TO STAY
The Ritz-Carlton Cancun
52.998.881.0808
ritzcarlton.com

Fairmont Mayakoba
52.984.206.3000
fairmont.com/mayakoba

Maroma Resort & Spa
866.454.9351 (U.S.)
800.627.6621 (Mexico)
maromahotel.com

The Royal Hideaway Playacar
800.999.9182 (U.S. and Canada)
800.64.60.64.60 (Europe)
800.907.9500 (Mexico)

Karen Schaler is an Emmy-winning journalist who says her home is wherever she puts her suitcase.

Map by Steven Stankiewicz
Photography by Riviera Maya Tourism Promotion Board, Fairmont Hotels & Resorts, Kor Hotel Group, Courtesy of Maroma, and The Ritz-Carlton Cancun